Rundgatting Snipa in Sweden

Tuesday, April 10, 2018

Smaug finally got launched a couple months ago.  I didn't step the mast as I wanted to see how she floated on her lines and if there were any leaks.

Once in the water I rowed her around the harbor and was quite please with her performance.

I added the mast carry brackets and the running rigging.  Now all we need is some wind which unfortunately did not appear on this trip.

The weatherman's forecast of  5 to 10 mph of wind was greatly exaggerated. It took two more tries to finally get just enough wind to sail.

Finally on the fourth attempt we had just enough wind to make a little headway.  Nothing two exciting but at least I know the sail works. I will probably do some fine tuning once our afternoon onshore  breeze starts to arrive, usually in June. As you can see I added lazy jacks and a bow mast shroud.  My concern was if a heavy wind was encountered there would be a lot of pressure on the mast thwart pulling astern.

Wow It looks like I need to loose a little weight.  I set the oars in place and found they ride nicely when placed on the bow.  I'll probably come up with a bracket to hold them in place.  Also it's nice not to have them under foot.

Friday, February 24, 2017

My wife's cousin was visiting from France so I put him to work drawing the dragons for Smaug's shields.  He is a wonderful artist.

Once Jacques completed a drawing I routed around the dragon to create a three dimensional figure. 
Here we are showing off our handy work. There are four shields total, two of each pattern with slight changes in the painting theme.
Here we have the new mast thwart installed, the rowing thwart which is removable and can be stored in front of the mast and the new oars. Although the beam dimension formula called for 10' oars I opted for 9' so they would fit between the stern seat and for forward bulkhead.  I will stain them the same color as the floor.

Making the oars was a bit more complicated than I thought it would be.  The most difficult part was cutting the excess wood from the side of the blade.  I used the band saw but I had trouble keeping the blade of the oar perfectly vertical. Subsequently I had a lot more sanding and planing than I expected.  If I ever build another set of oars I will use the power plainer to remove the excess thickness from the blade.

Thursday, September 29, 2016

Smaug is finally nearing completion.  Following are a few shots of her details.  So far everything has come together very nicely.  I guess we will know that for sure when she goes into the water next year.

The oars are secured by two wood blocks with a cap bolted down on the stern block.  The centerboard cap is completed and installed with two lines attached to the centerboard.  The bow line will be used to pull the swing keel all the way forward.  The stern line will raise and lower the keel.  By using a combination of the two lines the centerboard can be adjusted to move the center of effect forward or to the stern depending on the angle of the centerboard.

The push pull rudder stick is attached to the tiller by a double shackle.  The two blocks on the stern seat are the stern and bow cradles which mount on the stern and bow stem posts to carry the mast in transit.

The shields are mounted with aluminum L brackets.  You can also see the oar lock mounted to the coaming.

The steering oar is mounted with a carved dragons head to give it a little more presence. 

The dragon head and the stern stem extension are mounted with nut certs and flat head bolts.  The mast cradles are matched
to the same nut certs so they can carry the weight of the mast when on the road.

The mast thwart is epoxied in place and attached to the oak ribs.  The rowing thwart is removable and can be stowed under the oars in front of the centerboard case.

Next spring I will order a trailer so I can customize it to fit Smaug.  Then the mast will be stepped and the rigging installed.  I am planning on a balanced lug rig of about 100 Sq Ft.  

Sunday, April 10, 2016

Wow, it's been four months since my last blog entry.  The weather is now warming up and it's time to apply some paint and varnish.  Here are the first two sheer strake colors.  Red will be the third color on the strake.

The seats are installed although they need some more finish work.  I am also going to add another coat of paint to the interior.  The flat finish is impossible to clean so the last coat will be semigloss.  I also stained the coaming and applied the first coat of varnish.  I am using satin varnish to keep the boat from getting to shinny.  It is supposed to be a Viking vessel!!

View of the strake colors at the stern.  I am also going to add a tall extension to the stern keel from which to fly a pennant.
The steering oar is still a work in progress.  Plan to carve another dragon head for the top of the oar.
She does look nice from the bow.  So far I have cut two 30" shields from left over plywood.  I plan to build four and attach them to the port & starboard sheer strakes.  The birds-mouth mast is also complete.   I still need to build the spars.  I have also designed and built the mast thwart.  It will be installed as soon as I finish painting.   Hopefully April will be warm enough to keep working on all the finish work needed.

Monday, November 9, 2015

Building a Birds Mouth Mast

Work on the coaming continues.  Each strip is clamped and glued in place.  It takes three pieces of oak to complete one strip and there are a total of three layers with five strips stacked together.  I think I have been working on the coaming for over a month.

Time to start on the hollow birds mouth mast.  As you can see finding straight wood is a problem.  I am using #2 pine with a scarf joint to get 18' pieces.  Each piece will be nailed to the jig to keep it straight as it is fed into the saw.

Here is a close up on the blade set to 45 degrees and the jig clamped down to the table saw.  On the first pass I notice the jig had a tendency to lift off the table as the end began to reach the far side of the out feed table.  I realized the rear end of the saw guide was lifting up allowing the jig to float above the saw table and distorting the saw cut.  I clamped the saw guide to the table and used hand pressure to keep the jig tight against the saw table.

Once the V-cut was complete the next step was to reset the jig to taper the stringer from 1 5/8"  to 1 1/4" for the top of the mast.  This is more fun than you might think as the jig is made from three pieces of 3/4" plywood. If I ever build another mast I will scarf the jig pieces together.  That should make life much simpler.

In order to get the pieces started in place I use a 6' starter banded together.  As I push a piece out the new long piece fits in place until all 8 pieces are fit together.  This is a dry fit to make sure everything fits together properly.

As clamps are added the V notch forces each piece to shoulder up to its neighbor and behold a nice straight mast begins to appear.

The glue up will consist of one coat of epoxy brushed into the V-notch only.   A second coat thickened to the consistency of mayonnaise will be brushed directly over the first coat before it has time to set up.  Then the 8 pieces will be clamped together and sighted for straightness and left to cure. 

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Here is a close up of the rub rail with the diamond pattern and a Nordic Shield carved at each end.

The first step up piece of the coaming is installed all the way around.  It is split in half with 3/8" attached to the first layer and 3/8" above the first layer to provide a shoulder to attach the next outside piece.

It is hard to see the seam but the second outside piece is in place attached to the stepped up inner piece and clamped down on the shoulder of the outside piece.  This process will continue until the coaming is about 4" high.  There will be three layers of 1/4" strips in all making the coaming 3/4" thick.

Are we having fun or what!!!

Sunday, August 30, 2015

The coaming will be laid up using the cold molded method.  The strips are 1/4 X 7/8 oak.  The steep curve at the stern and the inward bend plus the 180 radius at the bow which also has a compound curve make any other method impractical.  The first strip projects about 3/8" above the gunwale and the bottom strip will project about 1/2" below the bottom edge of the inwale.

Once all four pieces are epoxied in place the next layer will be staggered to overlap the seam of the first layer.  This will allow the next strip to build height as the inner strip will provide a shoulder for the next outer strip.  This will make more sense when I can take a photo to illustrate what I am talking about.

I am also adding a diamond pattern to the Brazilian Cherrywood rubrail.
I'll do a better job showing it once all the clamping is done.