Rundgatting Snipa in Sweden

Monday, November 9, 2015

Building a Birds Mouth Mast

Work on the coaming continues.  Each strip is clamped and glued in place.  It takes three pieces of oak to complete one strip and there are a total of three layers with five strips stacked together.  I think I have been working on the coaming for over a month.

Time to start on the hollow birds mouth mast.  As you can see finding straight wood is a problem.  I am using #2 pine with a scarf joint to get 18' pieces.  Each piece will be nailed to the jig to keep it straight as it is fed into the saw.

Here is a close up on the blade set to 45 degrees and the jig clamped down to the table saw.  On the first pass I notice the jig had a tendency to lift off the table as the end began to reach the far side of the out feed table.  I realized the rear end of the saw guide was lifting up allowing the jig to float above the saw table and distorting the saw cut.  I clamped the saw guide to the table and used hand pressure to keep the jig tight against the saw table.

Once the V-cut was complete the next step was to reset the jig to taper the stringer from 1 5/8"  to 1 1/4" for the top of the mast.  This is more fun than you might think as the jig is made from three pieces of 3/4" plywood. If I ever build another mast I will scarf the jig pieces together.  That should make life much simpler.

In order to get the pieces started in place I use a 6' starter banded together.  As I push a piece out the new long piece fits in place until all 8 pieces are fit together.  This is a dry fit to make sure everything fits together properly.

As clamps are added the V notch forces each piece to shoulder up to its neighbor and behold a nice straight mast begins to appear.

The glue up will consist of one coat of epoxy brushed into the V-notch only.   A second coat thickened to the consistency of mayonnaise will be brushed directly over the first coat before it has time to set up.  Then the 8 pieces will be clamped together and sighted for straightness and left to cure. 

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Here is a close up of the rub rail with the diamond pattern and a Nordic Shield carved at each end.

The first step up piece of the coaming is installed all the way around.  It is split in half with 3/8" attached to the first layer and 3/8" above the first layer to provide a shoulder to attach the next outside piece.

It is hard to see the seam but the second outside piece is in place attached to the stepped up inner piece and clamped down on the shoulder of the outside piece.  This process will continue until the coaming is about 4" high.  There will be three layers of 1/4" strips in all making the coaming 3/4" thick.

Are we having fun or what!!!

Sunday, August 30, 2015

The coaming will be laid up using the cold molded method.  The strips are 1/4 X 7/8 oak.  The steep curve at the stern and the inward bend plus the 180 radius at the bow which also has a compound curve make any other method impractical.  The first strip projects about 3/8" above the gunwale and the bottom strip will project about 1/2" below the bottom edge of the inwale.

Once all four pieces are epoxied in place the next layer will be staggered to overlap the seam of the first layer.  This will allow the next strip to build height as the inner strip will provide a shoulder for the next outer strip.  This will make more sense when I can take a photo to illustrate what I am talking about.

I am also adding a diamond pattern to the Brazilian Cherrywood rubrail.
I'll do a better job showing it once all the clamping is done.

Sunday, August 2, 2015

The stern seat is completed and installed.  I decided to use the same stain as the floorboards for the seat and the bow and stern decking.  The compartment below the seat is a flotation tank the same as the bow, only without the access door.

The steering oar is a work in progress.  I tried the traditional rope connection but it conflicted with the seat location, so I came up with another idea.  I drilled a hole in the oar shaft and elongated it so the oar would turn left and right on a 3/8 bolt.  I reinforced the shaft with two steel plates so time will tell whether I'm a genius or an idiot.  If it works OK I'll wrap the area around the steel plates with fiberglass cloth and epoxy the whole thing together.

Here is a close up of the shaft.  The bolt has a nut embedded in the wood boss.  The oversized shaft drilled to allow the nut to be inserted is filled with thickened epoxy.  The bolt was waxed and installed threaded into the nut prior to filling the shaft with epoxy.  When the epoxy was about 90% cured I gave the bolt a good whack with a wrench attached and it broke loose from the nut threads and created a threaded shaft as I unscrewed it.

Friday, June 26, 2015

The oak overlay strips are almost finished.  The next question is should they be stained, and what color, or should they be painted.  I'm leaning towards staining but I'm not sure which stain will be used at this stage.

Smaug the Dragon is finally being installed.  The fit along the oak strips is off a bit but a little sanding should take care of that.  The starboard side will be next.  The weather has been in the high 90's so working with epoxy is a hurry up and get it done proposition.  So far everything has gone well.
The 3/8" underlayment is being extended along the sheer rail.  I am using the same camber jig as the Somes Sound for the sheer taper.

Saturday, June 20, 2015

With the marine plywood installed over the forward flotation compartment the next step was to install the 3/8 X 2" oak strips. They are spaced 1/16" apart using fender washers for spacers.  Enough space to handle expansion and contraction but not wide enough to require caulking.  The strips also have a 1/8" radius edge on both sides.  I used thickened epoxy and stainless steel brads fastened into the cross braces.  They will be painted black with a heavily thinned paint so the wood grain will show through.  The 2X4 cross braces have worked out very well.  It helps to have long arms and squeeze clamps.

 The plywood bulkhead was overlaid with 3/4 X 2 1/2" oak strips.  A cut out was made for a 10" waterproof access panel.  I debated on staining the oak the same as the floorboards but opted for paint.  This has been a slower process than planned but I'm getting a lot of practice scribing.

Sunday, May 31, 2015

The steering oar is installed but still need a little more work.  The oar binds when turned to port so I will remove some more stock aft of the oar to give it more room to swivel.

Smaug has finally taken his rightful place on the bow stem.  The foredeck will hold the base in place and a wooden bolt will be installed through the outer stem and Smaugs neck to secure everything in place.  At least that's how the Swedes seem to do it.

I clamped the carved dragons to the sheer strake to see how they will fit once the rough deck and the oak 1/4" strips are installed.  No cracking sounds as they bent around the bow curve.  That's a good sign.  The trick will be to set them at the right high as once the rough deck is installed I will not be able to clamp them in place and I don't want to use screws.

I installed a bulkhead against the bow ribs and scribed a round coaming framework against the bulkhead and sheer stiffener.  Due to the steep curve at the bow I opted to install the 3/8" marine plywood sub top in strips.  Bending a full sized piece was not going to work.  Now the question is whether or not to run oak along the top of the sheer or die the decorative planking directly into the sheer rail.

Friday, May 15, 2015

This is the steering oar Boss which is made up from numerous layers of
3/8" pine laminates.  

I forgot to post a picture of the floor now that is is fully installed.  The interior paint color is quarry brick.  It dosen't look that pink, really.  It must be the lighting.

Wednesday, May 6, 2015

The dragons are finally painted and almost ready to install.   I did a test fit earlier and didn't hear any cracking sounds so we will hope for the best.

The sheer strake is stained with Interlux Brown Mahogany  thinned with mineral spirits and the remaining strakes are stained with mahogany gel stain.  I brushed the gel stain full strength and then used steel wool and mineral spirits to wipe through.  I finished up with a disk orbital sander to complete the rub through look.

Here is a close up of the rub through.  The problem was after sealing the strakes with epoxy there was no way to use a wiping stain and get it to look right.  I looked at several paint colors but could not find a color that worked.  The sheer strake has three coats of stain applied with a brush in order to get the color.  All the strakes will receive several coats of varnish with the last couple coats being a satin finish. 

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

The ribs are finally installed and the next phase is the installation of the floorboards.  I am using 3/4" oak cut 2 1/2" wide and fastened with 1 1/2" #10 SS wood screws.   The doubled floor bulkheads will provide ample support and define the shape of the floor.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

A cardboard template is scribed to fit the curvature of the hull. Once the curve is transferred to the board it receives a roundover edge and then the outside of the scribe is beveled to fit the hull. Sounds simple but there are numerous trips made to the sanding station and bandsaw to get the bevel right.  Almost as much fun as fitting the ribs. The floorboards that cantilever past the bulkhead receive additional support from a ledger glued to the adjacent floorboard.
A bilge pump will be installed in front of the centerboard box.  To provide access the two adjacent floor boards will be removable.  The centerboard bolt is also located just below the notched floorboard.

Monday, January 19, 2015

 I have begun building the ribs.  I am deviating a little form the traditional method. I'm using two 3/4" boards on each side of the rib to better facilitate the floor installation.  I started with the midsection rib as it has the least bevel angle. 
The bow and stern ribs have the most bevel with  as much as 15 degrees along the leading edge.  I am sandwiching two 3/4" boards together so I bevel each board individually.  I have learned to really appreciate both my band saws.  I am using my 14" band saw with a 1/8" blade for the primary shaping cuts.  The 9" band saw with a 3/8 blade and a Carter scrolling wheel does the angled bevel cuts.
I start with a cardboard cutout to acquire the initial curve.  I then transfer the curve to a piece of oak and pencil scribe the piece until I am happy with the fit.  The last step is to cut the bias to fit the taper of the strakes.  I then use a stringer to draw the curve in the top of the rib.  When the second rib is cut and fit I use the first rib to scribe the second making a matched pair.
Once the ribs are clamped and glued they will be sanded and routed to create a fair shape.